La Sevillana may not look like much, but the grilling that goes on inside is monumental in proportion to its size. Though the restaurant seats only 20 patrons, the enormous plates packed with meat and beans could feed an army ' and then some.

Pass up the typical Latin fare and go traditional. The bandeja paisa ($12.50) is an authentic take on the national dish of Colombia, served with four different types of meat including a red chorizo jam-packed with herbs, spices and roasted red peppers. A segmented and deep-fried chicharrone rounds out the smoky flavors, making this entree a serious stick-to-your-bones favorite. It's also served with a salad, a conventional corn cake and perfectly creamy pinto beans. The camarones de ajo, or garlic shrimp ($8.95), come swimming in a shallow dish of monounsaturated fat, but nevertheless deliver garlicky goodness.

On weekends La Sevillana serves traditional brasa-style barbecue, and they literally go whole hog. The kitchen uses a wood-burning barbecue rather than a commercial gas grill, and because of that, the meat is imbued with a characteristic char and flavor seldom seen in the nuevo Latino joints that pepper South State Road 436.

Along with hearty food, the selection of fresh fruit juices ($2.50) is extensive enough to please every palate. It's a little pricey for the atmosphere, but La Sevillana serves up first-rate Colombian fare that would have Chávez itching to negotiate.


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