The tonkotsu was as creamy, rich and comforting as we had hoped, and the springy noodles, slices of pork belly, kikurage mushrooms and pickled ginger gave it an attitude as complex as Beat Takeshi’s.
Sapporo’s superstar soups give credence to the cult of ramen in its quest to supplant spaghetti as the “noodle of now,” and to prove once and for all that it’s not just for college anymore.
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