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GOOD SQUARE MEAL

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I'm a sucker for a workhorse lunch and Elty's is one of those proletarian places where it wouldn't be out of place to see men in overalls hunched over huge plates, forking in meat and taters.

Sure, Elty's serves wraps and salads, but ignore that part of the menu – except for the eggplant wrap ($4.25), a bundle of fried eggplant, mozzarella, roasted peppers and lettuce, which is exceptionally tasty in its simplicity. And the beef sandwich with sautéed onion and mushroom ($5.99) and the chicken club wrap ($4.50) – just grilled chicken, lettuce, tomatoes, mayo and bacon.

OK, the sandwiches are great but flip over the menu to find other daily treasures: Monday's chicken with rice ($5.50), followed by beef stew ($6.50), roast pork ($6.50), chicken stew ($6) and on Friday, create your own pasta dish. Then ask about the specials that AREN'T on the menu – curry chicken stew and meatloaf were among recent offerings – dictated by the chef's whims, what's in season and what's in high demand.

Elty's does have a dinner menu, but they close at 6 p.m., so plan ahead. Or give chef/owner Ken Neckles a call before dark because he may stick around to serve some spaghetti with meatballs ($5.50) or a ribeye ($14.99) if you're hungry enough. Keep an eye out for Elty's, as it's tucked away on State Road 436 near Howell Branch Road. It may be hard to spot, but seeking it out is well worth the extra effort for a square workday lunch.

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