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No frills on grills at Pollo D'Oro

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Pollo D'Oro wouldn't be mistaken for a flashy fast-food chain, that's for sure. The building is plain and humble; the parking lot is bleached out; and the drive-through microphone sometimes goes on the fritz (just pull around to the window and wave). But get past the outside, and you'll find irresistible Cuban-style cooking.

The straightforward motto is "chicken on the grill," which they serve umpteen ways, mostly in the $3 range -- three-piece platters, half-chickens, quarter-chickens, boneless breast platters. That's all, but it's enough. These birds are smoky, tender and juicy.

The quarter-chicken deal with homemade black beans and rice is a personal favorite ($2.39). Add a side order of fried plantains ($1.25) for a treat. Call ahead for takeout or eat in.


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