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Upscale Cellar stands ground

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If you miss the overall eclecticism of the former Park Avenue Wine & Cheese Cellar, where a little pot of mustard could cost more than a vintage Port, a leisurely trip up to Heathrow can help to stop cravings for French wine, Belgian chocolate and Italian vinegar.

We don't have basements here, so Pierre's Wine Cellar (1220 Inter-national Parkway South; 407-805-8887) isn't literally underground, but more fittingly sited at the upscale Shoppes at Oakmonte.

Owned by the Uteschill family, Pierre's shows its French heritage with a large selection of vintages, both ordinaire and otherwise, from Alsace and Bordeaux, along with wines from around the world. There's an assortment of cheeses (like a lovely Rouleau Provence), crystal stemware and decanters, gourmet oils and spiffy designer corkscrews. There are regular tastings, and special orders (a case of my favorite Long Flat Red?) are welcome.